Known for their evocative creations, ROKSANDA bring an autumn and winter 2023 collection true to their core – full of intense colours and creative expression.
The ROKSANDA Autumn and Winter 2023 collection is a tribute to art, design and community. One of the brand’s inspirations is the work of Japanese visual artist Atsuko Tanaka, an important member of the post-war artistic movement Gutai (an art expression where the human spirit and matter shake hands while keeping their distance). ROKSANDA introduce a scenario where the coexistence of fragility and strength is mirrored in the collection’s optimistic effervescence, dramatic radiance and elegant sheerness.
Channelling the brand’s rich artistic nature, abstract expressionism is interpreted in luxurious silks that become canvases to showcase print techniques, creating illusions of layered silhouettes and allowing multiple areas of colour for a distinct effect. The creations are further extended to develop a fil-coupé fabric (a jacquard weaving method), woven onto a delicate silk organza base, from which gravity seems to be melting elements of the gown. Elsewhere, recycled crushed taffeta in foiled gold and silver is applied to innovative architectural constructions, allowing unexpected negative spaces. The theme of sheltering and a sense of refuge is emphasised through delicate silks overlaid by floor-sweeping woollen capes.
Tailoring and outerwear remain powerful while new structures are introduced through increasingly defined waistlines. Exaggerated proportions and extended panels of fabric wrapped around the bodice form new-found silhouettes. Handmade bright crimson and yellow patterns are applied by needle punching – using the artisanal technique Agugliatura to form organic, abstract lines, elevating fine wool coats and over layers. Soft Nappa leather accessories in the brand’s unmistakable vivid colours, such as fluorescent pink and marine blue, are repurposed and reconstructed with foam elements featured at necklines and as straps, creating a modern, distinctive synergy with classic footwear by Manolo Blahnik.