Autumn and Winter 2025’s make-up is moody, layered and a little rebellious. Bushra Hakim highlights the key runway inspirations.
Summer is fading fast and the cooler months are coming in with a moodier agenda. Instead of clinging to bronzed minimalism, make-up is stretching into richer palettes, experimental textures and a little bit of theatrics. This season is about embracing contrast, with the softest skin paired with sharp eyes, lips in deep tones and unexpected details that keep things avant-garde. The season’s runways flaunted styles that are bolder, more layered and ready to take us from cooler afternoons to long, exciting nights.
DARK ROMANCE
One of the most striking looks this season is the return of the gothic lip. Oxblood, cherry and blackcurrant lips made a powerful return, ushering in a moodier take on glamour. At TOM FORD, lips were slicked in high-shine oxblood gloss, along with pared-back eyes and sculpted cheekbones for a sultry finish. Versace followed suit by showcasing pouts stained in deep berry tones and gloss. Whether matte or shiny, these darker shades are mandatory for this time of the year.
CRUSH FLUSH
Coined as ‘boy blush’, this trend is all about recreating the innocent, flustered flush that appears when you’re caught off guard, especially when seeing someone you fancy. The blush placement sits slightly lower and more central on the cheeks, often dusted across the bridge of the nose. Max Mara perfected the look with warm, rosy tones softly diffused across the face, giving models that charmingly bashful, ‘walked in from the cold’ look. It’s playful, approachable and transitions beautifully off the runway into everyday wear.
MOON KISSED
While summer has been about bronzed, sun-kissed complexions, winter leans to more cooler, ethereal radiance. Moonlight skin is all about a glow from within with a pearly, slightly frosted undertone. At Iris van Herpen, models walked with otherworldly complexions enhanced in luminous highlighters along the cheekbones and shimmery accents at the temples. The result was an almost celestial quality, skin that catches the light without looking heavy.
ESPRESSO EDIT
Brown is hardly new to beauty, but this time around it takes centre stage in what’s being dubbed ‘espresso make-up’. Inspired by the deep richness of coffee, this trend uses tonal shades of mocha and chocolate across lids, lips and cheeks. At Acne Studios, earthy browns defined the eyes in softly smudged liners and shadows, creating dimension without harshness. The effect is sultry yet wearable, the perfect everyday look that can be amped up for evenings with darker lips or intensified shadow.
SPIDER LASHES
Forget sleek, fanned-out mascara, this season’s lashes are clumped, bold and unapologetic, much like Twiggy in the ‘60s. Dubbed ‘spider lashes’, the look appeared at Chloé, where mascara was piled on deliberately to form clusters that felt retro yet modern. Thom Browne took the idea further with dramatic, almost theatrical, feather-like lashes that framed the eyes strikingly. It’s a daring move that turns mascara into a statement piece rather than just a finishing touch.
SUBTLE LINES
Graphic liner took a backseat this season, replaced by ultra-thin, almost imperceptible strokes. At Dior, eyeliner was traced delicately along the inner corners and upper lash lines, adding just enough definition without overwhelming the face. Isabel Marant opted for faint flicks that enhanced the eyes subtly, while Genny went with a barely-there haze along the lower lash line. It’s clean, considered and a welcome shift from the overly bold liner of seasons past.
MIDAS TOUCH
Metallic touches gave make-up an unexpected sparkle this time. Instead of full-on shimmer, designers opted for refined flickers of gold on lids or brows. At Bibhu Mohapatra, models wore shimmering gold accents on the eyes that caught the light as they moved, while Kobi Halperin opted for flecks of metallic pigment placed delicately at the centre and inner corners. This is understated glamour at its finest – subtle, wearable, yet impactful enough to transform a pared-back look.
POLISHED GLOW
Seen time and time again is the renewed focus on healthy, natural-looking skin. Shows like Ferragamo and Stella McCartney championed dewy complexions with minimal base, focusing instead on skincare-prepped faces and subtle highlighting. The goal isn’t to conceal, but to enhance. Light foundations or tinted moisturisers, strategic highlighter, along with a finish that lets freckles, texture and personality shine through. It’s real skin, but polished.