Fresh flavours abound at the new Masso brunch. Liz O’Reilly headed there to find out what’s on the menu.
When one of your favourite restaurants launches a new Friday brunch, it would be rude not to go take a look.
So, I was happy to visit Masso at Palmyard Hotel to sample the La Dolce Vita brunch, which aims to channel long festive meals on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, coupled with French Riviera charm.
Inside, the tables were laid with the customary pristine, starched white linens, each bearing a couple of typically Amalfi lemons and a pretty white gerbera to unify the colours. Zig-zag patterned banquet seating in black and white was comfortable enough to invite lingering tastings, and a loopy wickerwork chandelier provided a talking point – it’s such a signature that it even appears on the menu.
The greeting from staff was welcoming without being over-effusive, and we were soon seated with our choice of drinks, enjoying a chilled musical selection from the DJ that really helped us engage with that Friday feeling.
Before long, the bread selection arrived with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The bread was super soft, a focaccia almost cake-like in texture dotted with sundried tomatoes. A sundried tomato dip offered a lightly smoky flavour, perfect alongside the aged balsamic, thick, dark and slightly syrupy in consistency.
Arancini Asparagus & Fior Di Latte was served alongside, the asparagus making an interesting addition to this traditional crispy rice ball, giving an earthy richness in contrast to the creamy mozzarella.
As the dining room began to fill, voices rang out, glasses clinked and we could feel festivity in the air – a real sense of communal dining, but with the table arrangement so well thought out that each grouping could still enjoy some privacy.
The first of our starters, the Caprese Salad, looked like a pretty flower with a centre of creamy mozzarella whipped to a fluffy, mousse-like texture encircled by juicy halved plum tomatoes. The cheese was adorned with glistening deep green basil oil – all the elements together forming a tasty and satisfying bite, each separate element playing differently on the taste buds.
The Amalfi Salad was a bright and colourful mix of peppery rocket leaves, slightly bitter frisée and bold, spicy radicchio, coupled with generous chunks of citrus including juicy pomelo and red grapefruit. This literally tasted like summer in a bowl and did indeed evoke long, lazy afternoons on the Amalfi Coast.
Melon & Beef Prosciutto was a delightful combination – the sweet melon providing the perfect contrast to the gamey, nutty meat – a duo I returned to several times.
My favourite among the appetisers, though, was the Italian Tonno. Small slices of tuna, raw in the centre and lightly seared at the black pepper-coated sides – like a Mediterranean version of ceviche. Floating in a sauce of leche de tigre with a whisper of citrus that gave a delicate heat, the plating with hazelnuts, edible flowers, cucumber balls and pickled radishes looked beautiful. The mix of flavours and textures was a wonderful combination, exciting all the senses.
Our pizza arrived with a beautifully thin crust, perfectly charred and blistered at the edges with a light, chewy, cheesy centre. Topped with a good helping of crunchy zucchini and briny olives contrasting with sweetness from red onions and tomatoes, a liberal sprinkling of rucola added a peppery green bite. With other dishes in mind, I tried to limit myself – I honestly did – but this was just too yummy, and I couldn’t help going back for several slices!
One of the things I really like is that Masso serves brunch portions according to the number of people in your party. We were two, and we received small portions, perfect in size and not at all overwhelming – so, even several slices of pizza was not overdoing it. And if something particularly takes your fancy, you just order another portion – sustainable and, at the same time, avoiding that sense of overwhelm when you are overserved.
We actually did come close to asking for a second helping of the Homemade Linguine Frutti Di Mare. This was the absolute star dish for both myself and my dining companion. A generous helping of seafood – from shrimps to scallops and lobster morsels – was perfectly cooked, tender yet firm and tasty, quite an accomplishment when dealing with several different types of seafood. The homemade pasta was chunky and very slightly al dente, giving a satisfying chew, glistening brightly having been cooked in the accompanying lobster bisque which is made with butter – possibly sinful, definitely amazing – sweet, smooth and distinctly creamy.
But we had to leave space for the Branzino (local sea bass) all’Acqua Pazza, which translates as crazy water, poached with several herbs and, sometimes, white grape. Cooked and presented at the table en papillot (in a pouch of parchment paper), this allows the fish to steam in its own juices and those of the added vegetables – in this case, sweet red peppers, tangy tomatoes and juicy green olives. Long strings of just-crunchy fennel provided a very delicate addition of anise, adding a bright richness to the flavour profile.
Last up for the savouries was a visit to the Carving Station. Sometimes it’s slow-roasted Wagyu rib eye – on our visit, it was tomahawk cooked a deep pink medium with rich, dark, flavoursome mushroom gravy. A steak knife from French speciality brand Laguiole gave a little je ne sais quoi to do it justice, and the meat was succulent and tender, bringing my taste buds alive with the hint of warm open fields and sunshine.
A bowl of fries was served alongside, and when I say these were some of the best I’ve ever eaten, it’s really quite an accolade. My Irish heritage dictates a certain obsession with all things potato! Cut thin with their skins left on, they were piping hot and noticeably double-cooked for a super crunchy texture, then topped with shavings of parmesan – perfect with a sprinkle of sea salt and dipped in truffle mayo. Be still my beating heart.
If, like me, you believe no meal is complete without a sweet finale, Masso does not disappoint. We delighted in creamy fresh lemon sorbet, served in an actual lemon for a fun element to play on the Amalfi theme – bright, tart and an excellent palate cleanser. There was also a layer cake with superbly light sponge tiers bursting with decadent lemon cream, a fluffy, sweet triumph and my absolute favourite.
And, last but definitely not least, came a generous helping of the house speciality: Giant Masso Tiramisu. Served from a traditional copper pot, deep, rich coffee flavour infused the savoiardi biscuit base while the classic creamy domed top was dusted with bitter coffee powder cutting through the richness of the cream.
As you can probably tell, I was very impressed with Masso’s new offering. From the subtle friendliness of the welcome to the perfect musical blend and outstanding food, we couldn’t have asked for a better brunch. I’ll certainly be going back.
For more information or to make a reservation, please call Masso on 1772 1061.
@massorestaurant