Offering contemporary Japanese cuisine, Sumosan brings its trademark dishes to the Bahrain food scene, and Fernanda Langhammer went there to check them out.
One of the most exciting cuisines for me is, without a doubt, Japanese. You can always count on delicate flavours, emphasis on freshness and stunning presentation. So, when the opportunity to explore the culinary offerings at Sumosan arose, I was more than happy to head to Address Beach Resort Bahrain, where the island’s branch of this famous Londoner restaurant is located, to embrace a memorable culinary journey.
Just by stepping inside, you notice it is quite a unique place. The décor is impeccable. There is a pre-area with a long plush sofa and a separate bar for those who would like to enjoy some drinks before dinner. The herringbone flooring gives a sophisticated feel and chandeliers that look like a contemporary interpretation of iconic Japanese umbrellas create an ambience that is welcoming yet edgy. My favourite detail was the many vases with plants throughout the space. They add a vibrant and natural vibe that makes it more inviting and alive.
We sat near the open kitchen, which at Sumosan is entirely open, not like other places that say open kitchen, but you only have a part view of it. Here, you can watch the chefs and the whole kitchen team’s every step, preparing each and every component of the menu with clinical attention. Everything looked spotless.
We started our dining experience with the Seabass Carpaccio, delicate thin slices of seabass bathed in basil oil and yuzu ponzu sauce (a citrus seasoned soy sauce), that added an acidic touch and slightly ‘cooked’ the fish, and dots of guacamole. It was beautifully composed with the fish melting in the mouth in an explosion of intense yet well-balanced and refreshing flavours. The Avocado Salad followed, a tower of green leaves with avocado slices creating the base. The addition of pear, seaweed, caramelised pecans and toasted buckwheat gave depth and texture in each bite and the cashew miso sauce enveloped all the elements – a dish that we kept going back to for more. We also had the Seared Wagyu Beef Tataki, which was an ode to the high-quality meat, thin slices adorned with one piece of crispy garlic for a nutty touch, highlighting the beautiful natural flavour of the Wagyu.
Completing the starters spread was a clever twist, the Salmon Crispy Rice Pizza, yes, you read it right, pizza! But the resemblance to this Italian staple was in the concept of layers. The rice base, a round, fried, super crispy and delicious ‘dough’ was covered in spicy cream cheese, then a layer of cucumber slices topped with raw salmon. The accompanying chilli tomato salsa enhanced the spiciness. A dish that was fun to eat, concocted with different textures for a satisfying bite, we all loved it.
After an impressive beginning, we moved on to the mains. I am a shrimp lover and the Wasabi Prawns came with a sweet surprise, the fried pieces were placed on a bed of mango and passion fruit salsa. The prawns were enveloped in tempura batter, the savoury hint of the fried delicacy mixed perfectly with the sweet and tangy fruit base – a mix of ingredients that created an interesting play on our palates. And as expected in any Japanese restaurant, we had a Sushi and Sashimi Platter – what a treat! We had three types of nigiri and sashimi: salmon, hamachi (yellowtail fish) and otoro (the fatty part of the tuna belly). Hamachi was my favourite for its firm but buttery texture and mild flavour, which was absolutely amazing.
From the maki rolls selection, the Spicy Yellowtail was the winner for me, simply elaborated with cucumber, spicy mayo and spring onion, it had the softness of the fish contrasting with the crunchiness of the cucumber with a hint of heat in the most perfect size for a pleasant bite, yum. We also had the signature Albemarle (named for Sumosan’s first location in London), which is the classic salmon and avocado with sprinkles of crispy rice and spicy tuna with mango salsa. The last main was the Wagyu Sando, made with a thick piece of pink Wagyu beef wrapped in Japanese home-baked milk bread with a golden and crispy toasted exterior. The sando is composed with two sauces: ponzu (a Japanese concoction usually made with soy sauce, citrus juice, mirin, rice vinegar and dashi) and Dijon mustard. The dish is not easy to accomplish, but the chefs at Sumosan were spot on! The meat was tender and full of flavour, respecting the characteristics of this premium cut.
If the mains were flawless, the side dishes shone through. The Glazed Aubergine was everyone’s favourite. The miso sesame sauce gave a caramelised coating that added sweetness and elevated the flavours of this ordinary vegetable. The Grilled Corn Ribs, coated in spicy yuzu kosho butter, were a satisfying yet very simple dish that we dug into with our hands, licking the juices off our fingertips – comfort food with an Asian hint.
The meal was enjoyed with special drinks – we tried Shironi, Café Smokyoto and Supai Ringo. The first two were quite robust, and the last one, made with green apple and popcorn, was light and refreshing. They can all be transformed into mocktails if requested.
And as every memorable dining experience should end, we had two spectacular desserts. The Sumosan Chocolate Fondant is made with a thin dark chocolate cake with a molten white chocolate centre, matcha-covered and served with vanilla ice cream, a fantastic combination of warm, rich fondant contrasting with the light ice cream. However, the Warm Chocolate Cookie with salted caramel drizzle, also paired with ice cream, stole our hearts; the chewy interior and crispy corners hit the sweet spot with mastery.
The restaurant is open every day (except Mondays) from 5.30pm onwards, and according to Goncalo Santiago, Sumosan’s General Manager, the Friday brunches are unmissable! We must return for that to embrace a party atmosphere without compromising on what matters the most: tasteful food.
For more information or to make a reservation,
please call or WhatsApp Sumosan on 1700 8800.
@sumosan.bahrain