Astéria in Bahrain’s Adliya district promises ‘Greek food at its finest’, Liz O’Reilly went along to find out if it delivers.
Since its launch just over a year ago, colleagues and friends have been waxing lyrical about Astéria. So, with dining very much back on the menu, I decided it was time to see what all the fuss is about.
Arriving on an early weekday evening, I was delighted to find that this Adliya hotspot has its own parking – a distinct bonus in this part of town on any night of the week. From the basement, a discreet private elevator whisked us up to the restaurant and I was immediately impressed by the level of thought that’s clearly gone into both layout and décor, not to mention the warm welcome from the service team.
The space is split into three areas: the restaurant proper; a light, airy smoking section that I was almost convinced was a terrace, except that its fully enclosed with a great wooden gabled ceiling – definitely a plus during Bahrain’s unforgiving summers; and a swanky, moodily lit lounge area complete with abundant bar for mocktails, cocktails and more, and DJ spinning everything from Pink Floyd (slightly electro style) to Greek tunes.
Walls throughout are in warm, pale tones with interesting fishy-themed artworks and antiqued mirrors. Areas of tenting on the ceilings give an air of grandeur that’s reflected in the plush, comfortable seating and ambient lighting comes in multiple forms, from uplighters on walls decked with Greek-style friezes to interesting, conversation piece hanging lamps.
Overall, the feel is of welcoming indulgence; everything is thoughtful and clearly intended to be savoured.
Before long, we were seated and multiple dishes began to arrive. And here I must say that the tableware deserves a mention of its own. Bulbously beautiful, pristine white bowls cradled gooey dips; plates, clearly custom made, were decked with fish and sea creatures and cutlery from Bugatti added the finishing touch to a table setting of detail after small detail waiting to be discovered.
We started with a selection of house-made breads and dips and oh my, they were some of the best I’ve eaten, not just in Bahrain but, possibly ever! Taramosalata, creamy fish paste with olive oil, salmon roe and dill, hit the flavour spot perfectly. Not overly fishy, just a delicate hint beautifully complemented by the citrussy fennel notes of the fresh herb that’s so abundant in Greek kitchens.
Tzatziki – Greek yoghurt, cucumber, garlic, fresh herbs and dill oil – was the one I’d been looking forward to all day. And it did not disappoint. Silky, fresh and smooth, the garlic cutting through the richness of the yoghurt, the whole table kept going back for more till the bowl was wiped clean.
Now, much as I adore tzatziki, the Melitzanosalata instantly became a new favourite. I had been warned about this, and my friend was absolutely right: once tasted, I just couldn’t leave it alone. With smoked eggplant purée, peppers, pickled baby eggplant, pecans and fresh herbs, it was reminiscent of a really good Baba Ghanoush, but elevated by the addition of the nuts and peppers. Velvety and chunky all in one go, the skill in the fire cooking is thoroughly evident in the smoky, nutty flavour. I will go back for this alone.
At some point, orzo crackers came along. Interesting, crunchy and earthy, they were perfect for soaking up the rich, flavourful Seabass Tartare. The diced fish fillet accompanied by tomato, cucumber, shallots, olives, capers, basil and orange gel presented an interesting taste and texture combination; the basil and orange leaving a tangy aftertaste without overpowering the delicate flavour of the fish.
Heirloom Beetroot Salad was a meal in itself. Roasted baby beetroot, slices of fresh beet, tahini yoghurt, walnut pesto, roasted orange, goat cheese and a pop of quinoa. The intense sweetness of the root was delicately balanced by the saltiness of the cheese and the earthiness of the creamy tahini layered over the nuttiness of the pesto formed a deeply satisfying forkful with the quinoa giving a slight chew amongst the other elements.
From the Hot Appetizers selection, we tried Crispy Calamari – fried calamari, pepperoncini, basil mayo, garlic sauce and black salt. I was seriously impressed to see the shape of the calamari perfectly preserved within the incredibly light batter. A delicately briny taste formed an elegant backdrop to the flavourful accompaniments, raising an everyday dish to the level of something special, ably aided by the precisely beautiful presentation – something that seems a signature of everything from the Astéria kitchen.
The last of the starters, Crispy Baby Zucchini was another great favourite at our table. Perfect medallions, arranged by size and shape for an eye-catching display, sat on a bed of creamy tzatziki that truly cried out for dipping. These were a triumph, a super-light coating and extreme skill rendering them fluffy and puffy, the sweetness of the vegetable combining perfectly with the tartness of the tzatziki. Even when cold, they were still light and tasty without a hint of oiliness, and we all returned to this dish multiple times.
For the mains, we were served two house specialities: Ribeye on the Bone and Beef Giouvetsi. The latter is a slow-cooked Wagyu beef cheek served with Kritharaki pasta (orzo) and Graviera cheese. It was my first experience of this dish, and I can honestly say I was rendered silent, which doesn’t happen very often. Deeply umami, the slow cooking had produced a texture of such velvety softness, it literally dissolved on the tongue in a burst of almost fluid, gelatinous beefy flavour. The pasta alongside had absorbed the meat juices for a deeply, earthy and satisfying taste and mouthfeel.
The Ribeye, by contrast, was much firmer. Rich, slightly gamey and buttery, flame grilling had given it an attractive char, the ultimate meaty feast to end our savoury selection.
We couldn’t possibly leave without sampling desserts and the clear winner for me was the Greek Coffee Profiterole. I was slightly put off, since I really don’t like coffee, but since that part was only the homemade ice cream, I was happy to tuck into the deliciously light choux spheres bursting with mascarpone cream and topped by hazelnut praline. Sweet, but not too much so, and oh, so satisfying, they were a perfectly fitting end to an exceptional feast.
I could honestly go on so much longer about the joy that is Astéria – from the staff to the ambience to the amazing menu that brings the best of Greek cuisine to Bahrain. But I will just say, you simply have to try it for yourself. And, if you’ve a mind to do so, they’ve just introduced two special offers that make it even easier to fall in love. Goddess of the Aegean every Tuesday and Wednesday promises 25% off on food for ladies all evening and Astéria Date Night on Sundays and Mondays is where couples will find a special menu, table décor and more. See you there?
For more information or to make a reservation,
please call Astéria on 1771 7780.
@asteria.bahrain