Melissa Nazareth studied the fashion runways for make-up and hair style ideas that you can incorporate into your looks this season. From the ubiquitous smoky eye and metallic shimmers to braids, buns and sleek pony tails.
While every person has a unique aesthetic, it helps to draw inspiration from the Fashion Week catwalks. In this feature, we present our favourite make-up and hair style trends spotted on the Autumn and Winter 2022/2023 runways. We also speak to experts who share their take on how to adapt these ideas for your daily looks.
ALL EYES ON YOU
Earthy tones such as warm greens, golden yellows and browns and orangey reds are the colours for this season – intense, rich and warm. One make-up trend that goes perfectly with this vibe is the smoky eye. While the look is most ideal for the evening, you can get away with a softer smoky eye during the day by swapping black with brown or grey. Spotted at Bora Aksu during London Fashion Week was the lived-in smoky eye. If you’re a make-up novice, lived-in means creating an illusion of the product having been on for a while. It’s achieved by smudging the product, which offers a more intense result. Zuhair Murad featured a sultry, smoky eye: nudes all over the eyes to add subtle depth and definition, nude onto the centre of the lids for an eye-widening effect and a soft brown wing, smudging the edges for a smoky, blown-out line. Make-up artist Maria Zhang says: “Smoky eyes are one of those staple looks that will always remain trending, in my opinion. I love using brown or even copper cream shadow sticks during the day for a quick and subtle day variation and pop on some darker tones to transition it into a night look.”
Many recurring trends from Spring/Summer 2022 were seen such as blue eye make-up. It ruled New York fashion week: blue liner layered on top of black at Christian Siriano and powder-blue pigment swept across the lids at Kim Shui. Blue works hand-in-glove with the earthy colours that dominate the autumn season. Maria believes that while deeper shades suit the seasonal vibe of less prints and darker hued clothing, you can continue playing with bright, trendy colours for a pop of fun, especially if you’re wearing plain, black outfits.
Shimmery metallics were prominent on the runways. You can dress this trend up or down, depending on your comfort level. Make-up artist Peter Philips placed spots of silver on the inner corners of the eyes at Dior. On the other hand, Gucci had selected models sporting shockingly bright metallic eyeshadow, applied in a messy rectangular shape.
Maria shares her top three ways to play with shimmery metallics: applying a metallic eye shadow all over your eyelid; using the same product as an eyeliner; and changing the tones of your highlighter to icy blue or holographic from the usual golds, soft golds, peach and pink.
While some may debate on the practicality of the jewel encrusted trend as seen at Burberry and Simone Rocha for a day-to-day style, Maria believes otherwise. “Some ways to adapt the jewel incrusted eye trend for a daily look are to add individual rhinestones in the corner of the eyes or on the face,” she says. “You can even wear it as a liner or play around with some bold shapes for the more daring individuals.”
HAIR TODAY, GONE TOMORROW
Hairstylist Ghaida Hazeem says: “For haircuts we’re going to see more bangs, layered ‘70s style. I feel the styles of the 1970s are coming back, those blow outs and haircuts with layers. We’re also seeing a lot of women embracing their natural hair texture. They’re working with what they have. Let’s say they’re going to do a messy bun or a half up half down bun with their natural hair.”
Sleek ponytails and buns were prominent on the Autumn and Winter 2022/2023 runways. Bronx and Banco featured high-shine low ponytails and the bun was seen at LaQuan and Max Mara. Roksanda accessorised the bun with a black ribbon worn as a headband. Ghaida believes the messy bun is appropriate for both day and night. If you want to wear highnecks and backless dresses or showcase your collar bone, it’s a great option.
Sleek looks can make your face look bigger, so, how does someone with a fuller, round face pull off this trend? “I would suggest you sleek your hair out and then take two pieces of hair and have them cover your face to give it an oval shape,” she says. “This also makes the face shape better. Even people with small face shapes can do this but don’t cover the face, leave the hair a bit back. It’s called face framing.” You can take these pieces from the top of your head or near your ear.
THE BRAID-Y BUNCH
Braids of all kinds featured on the runways from the long-braided ponytail at The Blonds to the baby braids featured at Brandon Maxwell in New York. Baby braids means tying only a part of your hair in braids: tiny strands on either side of your face to create tendrils or the braid going horizontally across like a hairband or incorporating braids in the half-up-half-down style. At Dior, Dutch braids at the top of the head were accessorised with a hairband. Ghaida believes this look offers femininity and some strength and will be very much in vogue this season. Another braid style she recommends is a sleek, messy one as seen at Tory Burch and Roberta Einer. Part your hair at the centre or side, tie a sleek pony and then braid your hair and tie it at the bottom. Use some strands to frame your face and pull some from the braid to give it a messy look.
Damp and drenched hair was also a recurring trend. Ghaida feels this is more of a night look and can be adapted for this season by styling your hair as wet, shiny and sleek but straight – no curls or beachy waves.
Connect with Maria Zhang @mariazhang.artistry
Ghaida Hazeem @hairbyghaidaa